Ball Python Basics and Why You Should Visit the Pittsburgh Reptile Show

Amanda

Hey everyone, welcome back to another episode of Pittsburgh Reptile Show & Sale. I’m Amanda, joined as always by Rick. Today’s all about ball python basics—especially if you’re thinking about taking your first plunge into the world of snakes. I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again: if I had a dollar for every first-timer who walked through our expo doors scared but curious about snakes, I’d probably need a bigger snake rack by now!

Rick

Ha! And you’d probably spend it all on coconut fiber and cypress mulch. So right off the bat, ball pythons are a classic starter snake for a reason. They’re genuinely chill—docile, not too big, and actually pretty easy to care for once you know what you’re doing. Most adults reach three, maybe five feet at the most. None of that “giant python in the living room” drama.

Amanda

Exactly. And I think a lot of folks are surprised—they see “python” and imagine some sort of unmanageable beast, but the truth is, ball pythons are more like, well, pet rocks with personality. They’re great for apartments or family homes, and with the right care, they’ll stick around for 20 to 30 years. That’s a real commitment, but honestly, it’s one of the most rewarding ones you can make.

Rick

Yeah, and setup’s not rocket science, but it’s critical. You need a secure 40-gallon tank for an adult at a minimum—that’s non-negotiable. Ball pythons are like little escape artists if you don’t have a tight lid. Inside, you want a good temperature gradient. Warm side around 88 to 92 degrees, cool side 75 to 80, and keep humidity between 50 and 60 percent. Makes their skin and their lungs happy.

Amanda

And let’s not forget substrate! I’ve seen people bring in tanks with all kinds of stuff—newsprint, aspen, you name it. But for most beginners, cypress mulch or coconut fiber is the sweet spot. Holds humidity, safe for burrowing, looks natural. Avoid stuff like sand or pine—those can cause more harm than good.

Amanda

Actually, this reminds me—one of my favorite things at the show is when a nervous first-timer comes up, hands a little shaky, and asks, “Is it really safe to hold one?” I once helped a mom and her daughter pick out their first ball python—super sweet animal, by the way. The breeder actually walked them step-by-step through setup, right on the show floor. We had a mini habitat-building class right there, with cypress mulch and a makeshift hide. By the end, the mom was asking about morphs and the daughter was confidently holding her new snake. They left with a full beginner kit and, honestly, just huge grins. That’s what we’re about.

Rick

There’s nothing like it! That kind of on-the-spot help is what our community does best. I guess if you had to sum it up: ball pythons are ideal for beginners because they’re calm, manageable in size, and the care isn’t overwhelming, not when you follow some basic advice. Just set it up right from the start, and the snake—and you—will both be way less stressed.

Rick

So, you’ve got your enclosure dialed in—now comes the part everyone’s a little nervous about: feeding and handling. Ball pythons are notoriously picky sometimes, right? But the basics are simple: stick to frozen-thawed rodents if possible, about every 7 to 14 days depending on age. If your python’s a juvenile, feed every week; for adults, every other week is perfect. Live prey is not prefered as it can be risky, and honestly, you don’t want to deal with injured snakes or escaped mice that said talk to your breeder and ask them if they have succuefully switched your new ball python to frozen yet or not!

Amanda

Totally agree. And they really don’t need variety—whole, thawed rodents are all the nutrition they require. Just make sure you’re matching prey size to the widest part of your snake’s body, not just grabbing the nearest mouse in the freezer.

Rick

Yeah, and about handling—this is where that “pet rock” reputation can actually help new keepers. Let them settle into their new home for a week or more before you even try. Then, keep sessions short, maybe 15-20 minutes, just 2-3 times a week. Never handle right after feeding or when they’re blue from shedding. Support their whole body; watch for balling up or hissing—signs they’re stressed and need a break.

Rick

Okay, confession time. The first ball python I ever owned, I messed this up. I saw it “wandering” one evening, thought, “Oh, it looks hungry!” so I thawed a mouse… turns out, she was just going into shed. She barely looked at the food, and then went full curl mode for days. I hadn’t realized how much their appetite drops right before and during shedding. A vendor at the show pointed out the cloudy eyes and dull scales—I felt silly, but I learned a ton right there. Now, I always double check before offering food, and my snakes are way happier for it.

Amanda

(Laughs) I’ve done the same thing with my first corn snake. Sometimes you learn from little stumbles like that. That’s why it’s so important to ask questions—whether you’re at our Pittsburgh show or chatting with other keepers online. And honestly, ball pythons are patient teachers. As long as you keep the main care points in mind—right food, gentle handling, good hygiene—most problems are totally avoidable.

Amanda

If you’re sitting at home thinking, “Okay, I get the basics, but what if something comes up that I can’t Google?”—that’s where the Pittsburgh Reptile Show really shines. As we talked about in our vendor spotlight episode, you don’t just meet sellers—you meet real breeders and hobbyists who know their stuff and want to help you succeed. There’s nothing quite like picking out a ball python from someone who can tell you everything about its parents and temperament.

Rick

All the hands-on experiences help, too. We have live demos on how to set up enclosures, morph identification, and people there to answer nervous-newbie questions in real time. If you’re worrying about substrate, or temps, or your snake skipped a meal—you can literally walk up, describe what’s happening, and get advice from people who’ve been through it all. You can ask, “Hey, what’s this scale look like?” or “Why is my python a picky eater this month?” and walk away with a real answer, not just guesses from a forum.

Amanda

I’ll never forget this one family—mom, dad, two kids—who came to the show with a list of questions scribbled on a piece of paper. They’d clearly done some homework, but were overwhelmed. We set them up with a breeder, matched them with a healthy ball python, and showed them all the right gear. They left the show not just with a beautiful new pet, but also with a whole support network behind them. The best part? They still stop by months later just to give updates or ask new questions. That’s the kind of ongoing support you just don’t get buying from a random shop or online listing.

Rick

And honestly, I think that’s the key difference. There’s a community here—you’re not alone as a new keeper. You can try a live Q&A, take a workshop, or just listen in to someone else’s question and learn something new. Plus, all the animals at the show are captive-bred, so you know you’re starting off on the right foot safety- and health-wise. It’s the easiest way to troubleshoot, level up your care, and make connections in the reptile community.