Kenyan Sand Boas at the Expo

Amanda

Hey everyone, welcome back to the Pittsburgh Reptile Show & Sale podcast. I’m Amanda, as always joined by Rick. Today we’re digging—pun totally intended—into the world of Kenyan sand boas, one of my all-time favorite snakes.

Rick

And I mean, if you’ve ever wanted a pet that’s basically the definition of cute and low-maintenance, I’m telling you, sand boas are the answer. So, quick background: these snakes are super manageable in size—females can hit 24 to 36 inches, but most males barely crack two feet. That’s like... less snake than your average TV remote is long, alright?

Amanda

Yeah, and the thing about Kenyan sand boas that jumps out immediately is how solid and healthy they tend to be. They’re tough little noodles, not as fragile as some people worry such small snakes might be. Plus, get this—they’re known to live over thirty years. That’s a real commitment, but honestly, they age like fine wine.

Rick

I always joke we will be retiring with your first sand boa. But let’s talk about their personalities for a second. Honestly, they’re so docile. Most sand boas are totally chill, and that’s partly why I fell for 'em. Actually—

Rick

You know what, let me tell you about my first time with a sand boa at a local show. Sand boa's are Amanda's Favorite Snake and she just walked up to a vendors table who had them picked one up and just poured this little creature—a living scoop of warm sand, like—straight into my hand. She just sat buried in my palm with her head poking out like a submarine periscope. I mean, I’d always thought snakes were mysterious and a bit scary, and then suddenly I’m just grinning like a little kid.

Amanda

And now here you are, a full-blown sand boa groupie like me! But it’s true, those unique traits set them apart. Not only are they easy to keep, but that “burrow and pop up” routine—they’re so fossorial. You get this calm, visible pet one minute, then the next it’s a little snout poking up out of the substrate. I often mention the movie Tremmors these little guys remind me of the sand blasters of that Haha Classic movie... And the variety... Rick, talk about the morphs!

Rick

Oh yeah, so wild-types are that classic orange and dark brown, but there are all kinds of morphs now: anerythristic, albino, striped, splash, paradox—there’s honestly a KSB for every taste. I belive Amanda you have told me your fav color morph is the Black and white ones? Becasue they look like Cows? We all know your just a little wacky but you are right they do have the coloring and blotches to make they look like cows. People always ask if the diffrent color morphs have diffrent personalities ..Nope.. That’s consistent—just sweet little burrowers. To me, it’s that mix of looks, hardiness, and personality that makes them a top pick, for new folks and old hands both.

Amanda

And you don’t need to be a snake person to fall in love with them! If you’re looking for something you can watch dig, hide, and then suddenly surprise you—even after years—they’re just endlessly charming. But let’s get practical—if you’re thinking about bringing one home, let’s talk setup.

Amanda

So, habitat! I get a ton of questions about enclosures, and here’s the rundown: 20-gallon tanks are perfect, but you’ve got options. You can use glass aquariums, front-opening PVC or wood enclosures, or even a sturdy plastic tub if you’re on a budget. The main thing is making sure there’s enough substrate—at least 5 inches—to burrow, and definitely, a secure lid. These little guys are sneakier than you’d think for being, you know, sand sausages.

Rick

Yeah, I mean, even though they’re not escape artists like, say, corn snakes, you’d be surprised how determined a sand boa can get when it wants to disappear. And I love front-opening enclosures since you can reach in from the front—it’s less scary for the snake, less awkward for you. Plus, if you ever try and unbury a sand boa from above, it’s basically like playing the world's slowest version of Whac-A-Mole.

Amanda

Okay, so temperature: you want a 90 to 95 degree hot spot, with a cooler side around 70 to 75. They’re from African deserts and savannas, but the kicker is the right humidity—about 30 to 50 percent. Don’t just mist the whole enclosure; use a humid hide if you spot shedding issues. And remember, stuck sheds are usually down to dehydration, not just low humidity. Sand boas burrow for that natural moisture gradient, so a soil-sand blend, or just aspen, works beautifully. But, and this is crucial, do not use calcium sand. I know, it says “reptile sand,” but it’s a one-way ticket to impaction city.

Rick

Absolutely. And with substrate, I’m a classic aspen fan, but natural soil mixes work great too, if you feel like mixing play sand, topsoil, and some sphagnum moss. Just avoid those softwood shavings—those can actually be toxic to snakes. If you wanna decorate, lightweight hides, cork bark, some flat rocks—they all make it feel like a “real” biome. But anything heavy? Be careful, or you’ll crush your little noodle if they burrow underneath it. And branches—just make sure they’re not stacked wildly high, 'cause, let’s be honest, sand boas are not winning any climbing contests.

Amanda

Alright, feeding! This might surprise new folks: Kenyan sand boas almost always eat frozen-thawed mice, and that’s really all they need. For babies, start with pinky mice after their first shed, and scale up as they grow. Adults—you’ll want to base prey size on the thickest part of their body. Adult males usually take fuzzy mice, females go for adult mice. They’ve got slow metabolisms, so adults only eat every week up to about once a month. Overfeeding? That’s actually more risky than underfeeding—if you see skin stretching between scales, you’re definitely feeding too much.

Rick

And, look, I get a lot of questions at the show from people with “problem eaters.” Most sand boas will chow down, but sometimes they go on hunger strikes—usually for reasons like stress, shedding, bad temps, or just, you know, ‘cause it’s Tuesday. If they refuse food, double-check your husbandry, try different feeding techniques like scenting or wiggling the prey, or offer privacy. Oh, and, definitely—don’t handle them for a full day or two after feeding. It’s just better for their digestion. If you feed in the enclosure, just make sure they don’t swallow the substrate; impaction’s a real danger. I always try to serve on a slate tile or with tongs held above the bedding.

Amanda

Now, health stuff: dehydration and shedding issues are unfortunately common, especially if they don’t have that natural humidity gradient. If you see stuck shed or pieces left behind, try offering a humid hide or, honestly, consider switching to a more soil-based substrate that’ll hold moisture at the bottom. Signs of dehydration include wrinkly skin or poor sheds. Respiratory problems? Watch for open-mouth breathing or wheezing, and if you see those, it’s vet time—usually caused by low temps or high humidity. And mites—well, they’re the bane of every snake keeper. If your boa soaks or sheds a lot, check them for mites. Don’t panic; there are plenty of easy treatments, and regular cleaning is your best defense.

Rick

Right, and on cleaning—spot-clean waste as soon as you can, swap the water dish regularly, and do a full enclosure clean every month. If you stay on top of that, you’ll dodge most issues. But, honestly, if there ever was a snake that forgives little rookie mistakes, it’s the sand boa.